Dometic Refrigerators are a godsend when it comes to camping. With state-of-the-art design and storage space, it’s a combo of everything you need for cooling your snacks and refreshments.
But nevertheless, you may face the problem of your Dometic Fridge Not Working On Gas. Although this may be frustrating, don’t break a sweat. Mostly, you can troubleshoot this on your own.
We’re going to show you exactly what to look for and solve the problems without emptying your pockets. To solve the problem, we need to first figure out how a dometic fridge functions
Let’s jump right in.
How Does A Dometic Refrigerator Work?
Dometic refrigerators look like residential type fridges, but looks can be deceiving.
These refrigerators have features to ensure they stay closed while you travel. They also have a wide range of power source compatibility. So whether you have a trailer or Class A motorhome, you can get a fridge to fit. Here’s more on how a Dometic works and it’s science.
Dometic refrigerators use gas absorption cooling units. Heat boils an ammonia and water mixture, and as the ammonia vapor rises, it moves along a coil system.
This Ammonia vapor condenses to a liquid, and then finds its way to the evaporator. A hydrogen bypass lowers the pressure—and disperses heat—which provides the cooling effect.
The system continues to circulate ammonia and water, using very little propane to cool the entire fridge. Moreover, electricity is another mode of heating that initial ammonia and water mixture.
If that went over your head, it’s alright. Knowing the science in depth is great, however you can still fix that bad boy.
Why this may be happening
There may be many reasons why your dometic fridge is not performing well while on gas. Here’s a list of the most common reasons that may help:
- Low pressure of gas or no gas at all (maybe a close to empty gas tank or faulty regulator)
- Blocked burner jet
- Blocked burner nozzle
- Blocked gas pipe
- blocked or sooted up gas flue
- broken or dirty magnetic seal on fridge door– clean the seal and/or adjust the door hinge for best seal
Most of the above mentioned problems can easily be checked and rectified by a person good with DIY’s.
For example,If the burner nozzle is blocked due to soot dropping down the flue and laying in the nozzle thus blocking the nozzle. Blowing off the dirt and dust particles out can be a quick and
Equipments you may need:
Even if you’re not an electrician, there are many steps you can take to troubleshoot the fridge on your own. A few tools can help make the process simpler.
A digital multimeter, or voltmeter, can tell you whether there’s power going to your fridge. Apart from refrigerator diagnostics, you can use a multimeter for troubleshooting other electrical issues on your motorhome.
The best part? It can prevent you from replacing parts that aren’t broken when it’s a campground’s electrical fault.
Even if you don’t plan to wrench on your motorhome yourself, you should keep a basic set of tools on hand. For fixing any dometic fridge problems, you may need to remove a panel to access essential parts. Similarly, you may need to scrape clean connectors, tighten bolts, or other basic tasks with the aid of a toolbox.
Some spare parts are essential whether you’re taking a weekend trip or are a full-timer. For example, an RV fridge thermocouple is a temperamental part. It’s wise to keep an extra one on hand. Even if your trip is only a few days, you don’t want to spend that time shopping for replacement parts.
If you suspect the thermocouple is the problem with your malfunctioning fridge, you can test the thermocouple with just a screwdriver and millimeter.
Dirty Burner: Root Of All Evil
If the fridge is not working on gas, after you’ve made sure that your gas system is perfectly operational, then comes the real deal.
In the majority of cases, a simple burner cleaning exercise will do the trick and get you going again. The fix is very simple.
Step 1 of 7:
First thing to do is remove the outside panel on the side of your RV. This may seem like a big hassle but isn’t actually that difficult once you start. You may want to keep some pry bars nearby which will help remove the old panel easily.
Make sure you wear protective gloves when you deal with such work, or you may risk injuring yourself.
Step 2 of 7:
Next, locate a little metal baffle plate that is screwed on in front of the burner area. This will be located at the base of the flue near the bottom of the fridge. A few screws usually hold it in place.
Step 3 of 7:
Once you take this metal plate off, it exposes the burner so this is what you’ll see all the rusty scale that has fallen inside the burner, effectively restricting the gas flow. Don’t forget to check out the mound of rust dust at the bottom of the fridge framework.
Step 4 of 7:
Next get a blunt instrument such as a metal wrench or something and tap on the outside of the flue – the approx 4″ round pipe going up out the top of the fridge. Tap all around and up as high as you can reach to dislodge any rusty scale on the inside of the flue. Now don’t beat the tar out of it, just tap firmly but not too hard.
Step 5 of 7:
The next step is to get in there with a small shop vac or similar with a fine nozzle such as a small crevice tool. Vacuum out all the scale and debris that you can see including putting the nozzle right on the burner to suck stuff out of there. It is amazing how much dirt can accumulate in this area.
Step 6 of 7:
Once you have vacuumed out all you can see, get some compressed air and blow into the burner slots to send any remaining debris out the back of the tube where the gas comes in. BE SURE to stick something over the gas tube to prevent blowing debris into it!! I usually stick my baby finger over the end of the tube, but it is tight in there. Anything will work, a piece of cardboard, whatever. Make sure the buildup is off the thermocouple and igniter. You can do that with your fingers.
Step 7 of 7:
Now you can do a test run. Turn the fridge back on and let it light itself with the igniter. You should see a nice even flame coming out of the burner. You don’t have to put the metal plate back on to do this. Once you see it is running properly, then re-install the plate and put the side cover back on.
Word of Caution
If you are not confident working with electrics and gas piping/burners then it’s okay. Safety first!
Don’t be afraid to seek professional help.
Sometimes the problem goes further, such as the time you have to replace the main circuit board, but in that case, the fridge may not work on electricity either. But in most of the cases,this simple diy will do the trick.
Hope this guide solved your query, “Dometic Fridge not working on gas”.
Did we miss anything? Let us know your valuable thoughts in the comments below.
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